ASK & DISCUSS
INDEXCar night shooting using the poor mans trailer method.
4 years, 5 months ago - Daniel Lane
I wanted to know if anyone has had much experience with car night shooting and using the poor mans trailer method. Looking for advice on how easy, what the quality was like on the finished film. I have written a short that I want to film ASAP and it’s mostly set in a car at night between two characters, but I don’t want to over complicate things if it’s going to be a major hassle.
Thanks in advance.
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4 years, 5 months ago - Paddy Robinson-Griffin
Commercial low-loaders are generally lower, so you can get better angles, and they're safer with more anchoring points to prevent you getting killed, plus more places to secure a camera. You'd want to check your insurance is still valid, too.
I don't think I'd recommend just using a regular flatbed trailer as once you have the loading ramps, safety, etc uplifts will erode the savings. You might try a car grip kit., or cheating it with a static vehicle and moving lights/branches (easier to sell for a night shot)
Response from 4 years, 5 months ago - Paddy Robinson-Griffin SHOW
4 years, 5 months ago - Jonathan Ashdown
If you're looking for a low budget option then I can give you lots of advice. I work on Top Gear so have lots of experience filming cars, although more in a entertainment rather than 'cinematic' way. Saying that, I think what we do looks good and i'm happy to share some of the tricks we use when we fly abroad and dont have access to a russian arm or similar.
Okay, rear facing tracking - Basically what we do is get a 4x4 vehicle with a split tailgate like the Land Rover discovery 4 (the 5 doesnt work as well as they changed the body shape). Basically you ratchet stap a hi hat (very small tripod) on top of a small peli case. Camera operator goes in the back and is strapped in with a rock climbing harness. Put clamps on the struts so the top of the split tailgate cant close and then shut the bottom of the tailgate. Rig a monitor for a director to sit in the back seats so he can chat to the cam op. make sure you have radio contact between the two cars so you can do planned moves. Its also helpful to have a car infront and behind that are also on radios so you can relay information such as 'oncoming vehicle' or the car at the back can drive slower to create some space.
Minicams - for shots inside the car, mini cams such as the GH4 are great, the Sonys are okay but dont handle bumps in the road quite as well. Get some good quality suction mounts and some magic arms and stick the cameras to the windows. 3 points of contact is best and make sure you check the footage regularly and always think about lighing changes as you drive as once you set off you cant control the iris so hard sun/shadows are tricky. we do this all the time though.
Broken Drones - Its amazing what you can do with a broken drone. Find a crashed Inspire 2 or similar where the recording and the gimbal still work. Trap it to the bonnet of the car and you have a good camera that will smooth out the bumps in the road and also allows you to pan and tilt. You can also clamp it to a boom pole and get some really dynamic stuff.
For lighting in the car I'd reccomend the bendy LED panel lights as you can velcro them into places for some excellent looks. Shape the light with diffusion and black wrap and away you go. Falcon Eyes do some reltively cheap ones these days.
I hope this makes sense and gives you a few other ideas as alternatives to low loaders.
Response from 4 years, 5 months ago - Jonathan Ashdown SHOW
4 years, 5 months ago - Mark Wiggins
I think you’re actually talking about, “Poor Man’s Process.” You can get good results from this and there are loads of YouTube videos on it. It even gets used on big budget stuff as working on a process trailer can be a real pain.
Response from 4 years, 5 months ago - Mark Wiggins SHOW
Response from 4 years, 5 months ago - Daniel Lane SHOW
Response from 4 years, 5 months ago - Daniel Lane SHOW